Rahba Kedima (Place des Épices)
Tucked just off the main artery of Souk Semmarine, Rahba Kedima — the 'Old Square' — is a sun-drenched open plaza where conical pyramids of cumin, paprika and rose petals jostle for space with apothecary stalls selling dried chameleons, kohl pots and Berber remedies that have changed little in centuries.
A Square Where Time Moves Slowly
Unlike the frenetic covered souks nearby, Rahba Kedima is a charming open-air square surrounded by spice pyramids and woven baskets, where the atmosphere is more relaxed and the light is extraordinary. Jewish spice merchants once dominated this square, and the layered history of Sephardic and Moroccan culinary traditions still flavours every stall.
The air is thick with cumin, paprika and orange blossom — the kind of scent you carry home on your jacket for days. Beyond the spices, look for the apothecary stalls selling traditional Berber cosmetics, argan oil, kohl and the kind of mysterious dried ingredients that belong in a medieval pharmacy.
When to Go and What to Buy
Visit around 4 pm when mountain villagers arrive to sell their goods — this is when the square is least tourist-focused and vendors are more willing to talk about what they're actually selling. Saffron is the star purchase: insist on seeing the whole threads (avoid powder, which is often cut with turmeric), and test authenticity by wetting a thread on white paper — real saffron stains yellow, not orange.
Bargaining is part of the culture everywhere in the souks; vendors typically open at three times a fair price, so aim to pay 25–50% of the initial quote, stay friendly and be willing to walk away — you'll often be called back with a better offer.
Rahba Kedima (Place des Épices) on video
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