Quais de l'Yonne and the Pont Paul Bert
The west bank quays of the River Yonne deliver the most iconic view in Auxerre: a long ribbon of 17th- and 18th-century half-timbered and stone townhouses reflected in the slow green water, with the cathedral and the clock tower of the Abbaye Saint-Germain jostling for the skyline above. This is the shot that ends up on every Burgundy travel poster, and it is every bit as beautiful in real life.
The Best Spots Along the Quays
The Pont Paul Bert, the main pedestrian and vehicle bridge linking the old town to the right bank, is the classic vantage point: stand on the upstream parapet at golden hour and you have the full panorama of the medieval skyline above the reflected quayside houses. The bridge was rebuilt after World War II damage but its proportions are generous and the views are unobstructed.
For a slightly elevated angle, walk south along the Quai de la République to the small terrace outside the Hôtel de Ville garden wall. From here you can frame the cathedral spire between the plane trees that line the quay — a composition that rewards any photographer willing to spend ten minutes with a tripod.
Walking the Quays at Different Hours
At dawn the river is glassy and the reflections are perfect; the only sounds are coots and the occasional early jogger. By mid-morning the quays fill with cyclists on the EuroVelo 6 long-distance route, which passes directly through Auxerre on its journey from the Atlantic to the Black Sea — a reminder that this is a working river town as much as a tourist destination.
In summer, the Guinguette de l'Yonne — a seasonal open-air bar and dance platform moored near the Pont Paul Bert — brings live music and cold Chablis to the waterfront on Friday and Saturday evenings. It is informal, local and genuinely fun.
Crossing to the Right Bank
The right bank offers the reverse view: looking back across the water at the old town rising steeply from the quays, with the cathedral dominating everything. The Promenade des Petits Jardins, a narrow riverside path on the right bank, is shaded by willows and almost entirely overlooked by visitors — walk it north for 15 minutes to reach a quiet bend where you can watch flat-bottomed barges negotiate the lock.
The right bank is also where you will find the Port de Plaisance, a marina full of hire boats and hotel barges. Renting a small electric boat for two hours is one of the best ways to see the quayside facades from water level.
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