Marché du Samedi Matin, Place de l'Arquebuse
Every Saturday morning the Place de l'Arquebuse and its surrounding streets transform into one of the liveliest weekly markets in northern Burgundy, drawing producers from the Chablis vineyards, the Morvan hills and the Yonne valley with cheeses, charcuterie, vegetables and wine that you simply will not find in a supermarket. Arrive before 9 am to beat the crowds and to catch the farmers before th
What to Buy and Where to Look
The cheese stalls are the undisputed highlight: look for Époisses de Bourgogne in its distinctive orange rind, Saint-Florentin washed-rind discs and fresh chèvre rolled in ash or herbs. Several producers drive in directly from their farms and will let you taste before you buy — a ritual the locals treat with great seriousness.
The charcuterie vendors offer andouillette de Chablis, jambon persillé set in bright green parsley jelly, and terrines of wild boar from the Morvan. A good baguette from one of the two boulangers on the square is all you need to turn these into a perfect riverside picnic.
Wine, Honey and Seasonal Surprises
A handful of small Chablis and Irancy domaines set up fold-out tables and pour tastings of their latest releases. Irancy, the only red-wine appellation in the Yonne, produces a light, violet-scented Pinot Noir that travels beautifully and rarely appears outside the region — this is the place to discover it.
Depending on the season you will find white asparagus from the Loire border in spring, golden mirabelle plums in August, and truffle vendors from the Puisaye in late autumn. The honey stalls, sourced from hives in the Morvan Regional Natural Park, are excellent year-round.
After the Market
By 11 am the stalls begin to pack up, and the cafés around the square fill with market-goers comparing purchases over a glass of Chablis or a kir — the aperitif invented just 40 km away in Dijon but claimed with equal enthusiasm by every Burgundian town.
The covered Halles d'Auxerre on the nearby Rue du Maréchal-Joffre operate Tuesday to Sunday mornings for everyday provisions and are worth a quick detour for their 19th-century iron-and-glass architecture.
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