Winstub S'Burjerstuewel (Chez Yvonne), Strasbourg
If you eat only one meal in Alsace, eat it here. S'Burjerstuewel — known universally as Chez Yvonne — has been the city's most beloved winstub since 1873 and has fed everyone from Jacques Chirac to passing market vendors with the same unfussy, generous Alsatian cooking it has always served. The dark-panelled dining room, hanging hams and clatter of earthenware plates are entirely authentic.
What to Order
Start with a baeckeoffe — a slow-braised casserole of three meats (pork, lamb, beef) sealed in a luted terracotta dish with Riesling, potatoes and leeks — if it is on the daily menu; it requires advance ordering but the staff will advise when you book.
The choucroute royale is the dish to order otherwise: a mountain of slow-fermented Alsatian sauerkraut braised in Riesling and Gewurztraminer, topped with five or six different cuts of pork and sausage, served on a plate the size of a hubcap. It is not a light lunch.
Finish with a kougelhopf glacé — a frozen parfait shaped like the famous fluted Alsatian bundt cake — or a simple slice of tarte aux mirabelles if the golden plums are in season (August–September).
Wine Pairings and Atmosphere
The wine list is a masterclass in Alsatian varieties: ask the sommelier to guide you toward a dry Pinot Gris with the baeckeoffe or a demi-sec Riesling from the Grands Crus of Ribeauvillé with the choucroute. Prices are fair for the quality.
The room fills quickly after 7:30 pm and reservations are essential on weekends. Sit at the bar if you are dining solo — the regulars are talkative and the bartender pours generous measures of Marc d'Alsace (the local eau-de-vie) as a digestif.
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