Church of the Martorana (Santa Maria dell'Ammiraglio)
On Piazza Bellini, sandwiched between a Norman church and a Baroque one, the Martorana holds its ground quietly. Step inside and you're looking at mosaics made by artists brought from Constantinople in the 1140s — gold tessera work so precise that the faces of Roger II and his admiral George of Antioch still hold expression after nearly nine centuries. The church is small, and the mosaics are close enough to read like manuscript illustrations.
It costs two euros to get in. That's worth saying plainly, because what's inside — a cross-in-square Byzantine interior, the oldest surviving royal portraits in Norman Sicily — would justify considerably more.
💛 What travellers fall for
People who come back tend to linger in front of the mosaic where George of Antioch kneels at the Virgin's feet, and then cross to Roger II being crowned by Christ directly opposite. The pairing is deliberate and worth taking time with. Sunday morning hours are short — 09:00 to 10:30 — so a weekday visit gives you more room.
The story behind Church of the Martorana (Santa Maria dell'Ammiraglio)
George of Antioch, Grand Admiral of the Kingdom of the Two Sicilies under Roger II, commissioned the church in 1143; it was finished by his death around 1151. The artists he hired came from Constantinople, and they worked here between 1140 and 1155, producing mosaics that remain among the finest examples of Byzantine art in the western Mediterranean.
In 1193–94, aristocrat Eloisa Martorana founded a Benedictine convent on the adjacent property; by 1436 the church had passed to the convent's nuns, who gave it the name it carries today. The building was altered heavily in the 17th century — the original façade demolished, the 12th-century apse torn down in 1683 with the loss of its mosaics, and a new Baroque chapel added between 1683 and 1687 to a design by Paolo Amato. In 1282, between these same walls, Sicilian nobles met after the Sicilian Vespers uprising and offered the island's crown to Peter III of Aragon. Since 2013 the church has been restored and back in active use by Palermo's Albanian Byzantine-rite community.
Good to know
Open Monday–Saturday 09:45–13:00 and 15:30–17:30; Sunday 09:00–10:30 only. Admission €2. The bus stop 'Lattarini' is a short walk away. Hours shift for religious services, so check ahead. No restrooms inside — the cafés on the piazza cover that.
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What travellers say about Church of the Martorana (Santa Maria dell'Ammiraglio)
The walls were beautiful. You did not think they could be that way. It was a good place to be. It filled you up. Noice! 🖤
The Church of Saint Mary DellAmmri is a beautiful and peaceful place of worship. The church has a serene atmosphere that inspires prayer, reflection, and spiritual connection. Its architecture and surroundings are well maintained, creating a welcoming environment for visitors and devotees alike. Whether you come for worship, quiet contemplation, or to admire the beauty of the church, this sacred place offers a truly uplifting experience. A wonderful destination for anyone seeking peace and blessings.
Beautiful church but also very small. Not sure it’s worth the 2.50€ entrance fee.
A beautiful experience. Stunning interior and incredible history.
To me the most beautiful church in Palermo. I very much loved the insides with the mixture of Greek, Arabic and Christian style.
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