Seafood at Corteinfiore or the Harbour Trabucchi
Trani sits on one of Puglia's most productive fishing stretches, and the restaurants lining its harbour serve some of the freshest crudo (raw seafood) in the region — oysters, ricci di mare (sea urchin), and raw red prawns that arrived on a boat an hour earlier.
What to Order
Start with a crudo misto: a platter of raw clams, oysters from the Mar Piccolo area, shrimp, and sliced dentice (dentex) dressed only with lemon and local olive oil. Follow it with spaghetti alle cozze (mussels in white wine) or orecchiette con polpo (with octopus), both regional staples done exceptionally well here.
Trani is also the place to try tiella di riso, patate e cozze — the Pugliese baked casserole of rice, potatoes and mussels layered in terracotta. It is slow food in the truest sense, and most trattorie near the harbour offer it as a primo.
Where Exactly to Eat
Corteinfiore on Via Ognissanti is a long-standing local favourite: a courtyard restaurant in a converted palazzo that balances tradition and quality without tourist-trap pricing. Reservations are wise in July and August.
For a more casual experience, walk to the far end of the harbour past the castle and look for the small fish stalls and fry shacks near the fishing cooperative — a paper cone of frittura mista (mixed fried seafood) costs around €5 and is as good as anything in a sit-down restaurant.
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