Giardino degli Aranci (Orange Garden), Aventine Hill, Rome
Perched on the Aventine Hill above the Circus Maximus, this small terraced garden smells of bitter orange blossom in spring and offers what is arguably the finest free panoramic view of Rome — the dome of St Peter's framed between umbrella pines, with the Tiber glinting below. Come at golden hour and you will understand why painters have been climbing this hill for centuries.
The view and how to frame it
The main belvedere terrace faces due west, giving you a sweeping arc from the Janiculum Hill on the left to the Vittoriano monument on the right, with the dome of St Peter's perfectly centred. The view is best in the late afternoon when the light turns the travertine buildings amber and the shadows lengthen across the rooftops.
Just 50 metres from the garden entrance, do not miss the Knights of Malta Keyhole on Piazza dei Cavalieri di Malta — peer through the bronze keyhole in the priory gate and you will see St Peter's dome framed at the end of a perfectly trimmed hedge tunnel, a view that passes through three sovereign territories simultaneously (Italy, the Knights of Malta, and Vatican City).
What else is on the Aventine
The Aventine is one of Rome's quietest hills, lined with walled villas and early Christian basilicas. The Basilica di Santa Sabina, a two-minute walk from the garden, is the finest surviving early Christian church in Rome — built in 422 AD with original cypress-wood doors carved with biblical scenes, including what may be the oldest depiction of the Crucifixion in existence.
The hill has almost no tourist infrastructure, which is part of its charm. Bring water and a snack; the nearest good café is at the bottom of the hill in Testaccio.
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