The Old Harbour (Puerto Viejo)
Before the resort hotels arrived, Puerto del Carmen was a small fishing village, and its original soul survives in the compact Old Harbour district clustered around the historic quay. Painted wooden boats still bob beside the jetty, and the whitewashed buildings lining the harbour wall house some of the island's most characterful restaurants and bars.
Walking the Harbour Wall
Start at the southern end of the quay in the early evening when the fishing boats return and local men mend nets on the dock — it is one of the most photogenic scenes on the island and feels completely removed from the resort bustle just five minutes' walk away.
The harbour wall itself is a lovely ten-minute stroll; look back toward the old town to see the volcanic Famara cliffs in the distance catching the last of the afternoon light, a view that photographers consistently rate as one of Lanzarote's best.
Eating and Drinking Here
The strip of restaurants along Calle Varadero is the place to eat fresh Atlantic fish — Restaurante La Lonja is a local institution that has been serving the day's catch since the 1970s, with tables literally overlooking the fishing boats that supplied your dinner.
For a sundowner, the terrace bars at the harbour end of Avenida del Varadero fill up fast after 19:00; arrive early to grab a front-row stool and watch the sky turn pink over the water while nursing a cold Tropical beer or a local ron miel (honey rum).
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