El Pulguilla — Espeto de Sardinas
No visit to the Costa del Sol is complete without eating espetos — fresh sardines skewered on bamboo canes and grilled over smouldering olive wood in a half-boat filled with sand. El Pulguilla, a legendary chiringuito on Playa de Burriana, has been doing this the traditional way since 1975 and is widely regarded as one of the finest in Nerja.
The ritual of the espeto
The sardines arrive from the morning's catch, six to a skewer, blistered and lightly salted, with nothing more than a wedge of lemon and a basket of bread. The smoke from the olive wood gives the fish a flavour that no restaurant grill can replicate. Eat them with your fingers — there is no other way.
Pair the sardines with a jug of cold tinto de verano (red wine and lemon soda) and a plate of gambas al ajillo (prawns sizzled in garlic and olive oil) for a lunch that will make you seriously consider extending your holiday.
The setting and what else to order
El Pulguilla sits directly on Playa de Burriana, Nerja's longest and most lively beach, with tables on the sand and a front-row view of the sea. The chiringuito gets packed between 2 pm and 4 pm — arrive at 1 pm or after 4 pm to get a table without a wait.
Beyond the espetos, the kitchen does an excellent arroz caldoso de mariscos (soupy seafood rice) that needs 24 hours' advance notice but is worth every bit of the planning. Ask the waiter when you arrive and they will pencil you in for the following day.
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