La Cigale Brasserie
Opened in 1895 and listed as a historic monument, La Cigale on Place Graslin is one of the most beautiful brasseries in France — a riot of hand-painted ceramic tiles, gilded mirrors and art-nouveau woodwork that has barely changed in 130 years. The plateau de fruits de mer alone is worth crossing the Loire for.
What to Order
The seafood platter is the signature: a tiered tower of Breton oysters, langoustines, whelks, crab and shrimp served on crushed ice with shallot vinegar and rye bread. Order the medium size for two people and pair it with a bottle of Muscadet sur lie from the well-chosen Loire list.
For a lighter meal, the sardines marinées maison and the andouillette de Nantes with mustard sauce are both deeply regional and deeply good. The pastry trolley — yes, there is still a pastry trolley — closes out the meal in proper Belle Époque style.
The Room Itself
The interior was designed by Émile Libaudière and is classified as a monument historique, meaning the décor cannot be altered. Every surface rewards close inspection: the ceramic panels depict allegorical scenes of the seasons, and the ceiling mouldings are original plasterwork.
La Cigale was a favourite haunt of Jules Verne, who lived nearby on Rue de Clisson. A small plaque near the bar marks his usual table. Arrive at opening time (noon or 7 pm) to snag a window seat overlooking the neoclassical façade of the Théâtre Graslin opposite.
More of Nantes
Discover where to stay, what to do and the best deals for your trip.
Explore Nantes →
