Parc Naturel Régional du Mâconnais & Gorges de la Grosne
Just 20 minutes west of Mâcon, the limestone hills of the Mâconnais give way to deep wooded valleys and the little-visited Gorges de la Grosne, where the Grosne river carves through a narrow gorge flanked by ancient oak and hornbeam forest. This is the quieter, wilder face of Burgundy that most wine-trail visitors never find.
Hiking the Gorges de la Grosne
The GR76 long-distance trail runs through the gorges and several day-walk loops are waymarked from the village of Cluny, 25 km northwest of Mâcon. The most accessible entry point for a half-day walk is from the hamlet of Donzy-le-National, where a marked trail drops into the gorge, follows the river for 4 km through cathedral-like beeches and climbs back out through vineyards with views south toward the Roche de Solutré.
The gorge floor is cool even in August, the river is clear enough to spot crayfish and the birdsong — nightingales in May and June, buzzards year-round — is extraordinary. Pack a picnic and a swimsuit; there are several deep, clean pools suitable for a dip in summer.
The Villages Along the Way
The Mâconnais hills are dotted with Romanesque village churches — the region has more per square kilometre than almost anywhere else in France, a legacy of Cluny's medieval influence. The church at Berzé-la-Ville, 15 km northwest of Mâcon, contains a cycle of 12th-century Byzantine-influenced frescoes that are among the finest in France and are startlingly vivid in their original colours.
The village of Berze-le-Châtel above it has a medieval castle open for visits in summer, and the drive between the two along the D17 through Mâcon-Berzé vineyards is one of the most beautiful short drives in Burgundy — pull over at the belvedere above Milly-Lamartine for a view that encompasses three appellations at once.
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