Lago di Bolsena & the Etruscan Shore
Lago di Bolsena is the largest volcanic lake in Europe and, remarkably, one of the least visited — a vast expanse of crystalline water ringed by medieval hill towns, olive groves and the occasional Etruscan necropolis. Swimming here in July feels like a secret Italy has been keeping from the rest of the world.
The Lake & Its Towns
The town of Bolsena itself has a handsome lakefront promenade, a 13th-century rocca (castle) with a small archaeological museum, and a beach of dark volcanic sand where locals swim from June through September. The water is clean enough to drink — it feeds the ancient Roman aqueduct system.
Across the lake, the smaller town of Capodimonte sits on a promontory with postcard views of the two volcanic islands — Bisentina and Martana — that rise from the middle of the lake. Boat trips to Bisentina, which has Farnese-era gardens and a church, depart from Capodimonte's small harbour.
Eating & Etruscan Detours
The lake's signature dish is coregone (whitefish) — try it grilled with local white wine at any of the trattorie on Bolsena's lungolago. Pair it with Est! Est!! Est!!!, the DOC white wine produced in the vineyards directly above the lake, which has been made here since the 12th century.
A 20-minute drive north brings you to the Etruscan necropolis of Sovana — rock-cut tombs hidden in a forested gorge that feel utterly otherworldly and see perhaps a hundred visitors on a busy day.
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