Market · Florence

Mercato Centrale

The iron-and-glass Mercato Centrale in the San Lorenzo district is Florence's most atmospheric food market, operating on two levels: a bustling ground-floor produce hall where Florentine nonnas still shop for tripe and seasonal vegetables, and a vibrant first-floor food court that opened in 2014 and stays buzzing until midnight. It's the ideal place to eat like a local without needing a reservatio

Ground floor: the real market

The ground floor has operated since 1874 and is pure sensory overload — towers of pecorino and aged Parmigiano, butchers selling lampredotto (Florentine tripe sandwich), fishmongers, pasta makers rolling pici by hand, and stalls piled with Tuscan olive oils and dried porcini.

Arrive between 8 and 10 am to see the market at its liveliest, when local chefs and home cooks are doing their daily shop and the atmosphere crackles with rapid-fire Italian.

Pick up a lampredotto sandwich from one of the tripe stalls for an authentically Florentine breakfast — the braised fourth stomach of beef is dressed with salsa verde and a pinch of chilli; it sounds confronting and tastes magnificent.

First floor food court and what to order

The upstairs hall under the original iron roof houses permanent stalls run by respected local producers: Florentine steak, handmade pasta, fried street food, gelato, craft beer and Negroni bars all under one roof.

The pasta stall Lo Spicchio consistently draws queues for its cacio e pepe and fresh pappardelle with wild boar ragù — arrive by noon to avoid the lunch rush.

The food court is open until midnight making it an excellent low-key dinner option that doesn't require advance planning — rare in tourist-heavy Florence.

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