Auberge du Col de Bavella
At 1218 metres, the Col de Bavella is one of the great mountain passes of the Mediterranean, ringed by the needle-like Aiguilles de Bavella. The auberge at the col has been feeding hikers, shepherds and road-trippers for decades with honest, generous Corsican mountain cooking that you will be thinking about on the drive home.
What to Order
The charcuterie platter is the non-negotiable opener: thick-cut lonzu, coppa and figatellu, served with sourdough bread and a ramekin of brocciu. It is assembled from producers in the Alta Rocca valley below and is a masterclass in how well Corsican pork can taste.
The stufatu — a slow-braised stew of veal or wild boar with local wine, olives and herbs — is the dish to order if it appears on the daily board. It changes with season and availability, which is exactly as it should be.
Finish with chestnut flan or beignets de brocciu (fried brocciu fritters dusted with sugar) and a small glass of myrtle liqueur. The total bill for two, with wine, rarely exceeds €50.
The Setting
Eat on the terrace when weather allows: the view across the pines to the granite needles — some reaching 1665 metres — is extraordinary, and golden eagles genuinely do circle overhead most mornings.
The col is also the starting point for the Alta Rocca trails and the famous Trou de la Bombe rock arch walk (about 45 minutes return). Combining lunch at the auberge with the arch hike makes a perfect half-day.
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