International Stained Glass Centre (COMPA / Centre International du Vitrail)
Housed in a 13th-century tithe barn — the Cellier de Loëns — just 50 metres from the cathedral, the Centre International du Vitrail is the world's leading museum dedicated to the art of stained glass, from Romanesque fragments to contemporary installations by living artists. It is one of the most undervisited great museums in the Paris Region.
The Collection & Exhibitions
The permanent collection traces stained-glass technique from its 10th-century origins through the Gothic explosion, the Renaissance fondness for grisaille (grey-tone glass), the Victorian revival and the bold abstract work of the 20th century. Panels rescued from bombed Norman churches sit alongside preparatory cartoons by masters like Jacques Le Chevallier.
Temporary exhibitions rotate every few months and frequently feature contemporary artists working in glass — past shows have included monumental installations that turned the medieval barn's own windows into part of the artwork. Check the centre's website before visiting to catch what is on.
A dedicated section explains the chemistry and craft of making coloured glass, including why the 'Chartres blue' achieved in the 12th century has never been exactly replicated — a question that still occupies materials scientists today.
The Building Itself
The Cellier de Loëns is a remarkable structure in its own right — a vaulted Gothic cellar and a great upper hall used by the cathedral chapter to store tithes of grain and wine. The building's own medieval windows have been sensitively restored and some replaced with contemporary glass commissions, so the architecture actively participates in the museum's theme.
Allow 90 minutes minimum; the audio guide (available in English) is unusually good and covers both the history of the art form and the stories behind specific panels in the collection.
International Stained Glass Centre (COMPA / Centre International du Vitrail) on video
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