Le Gourmillon, Avallon
Tucked into the old town just off the main pedestrian street, Le Gourmillon is the kind of neighbourhood bistro that Burgundy does better than anywhere else in France — honest, seasonal cooking built around local producers, a short wine list heavy on Chablis and Irancy, and a room that feels like it has been feeding the town for decades. It is the place locals take out-of-town guests when they wan
What to Order
The menu changes with the seasons but certain signatures reappear: a terrine of jambon du Morvan with cornichons and mustard to start, followed by andouillette grillée or a slow-braised bœuf bourguignon that arrives in its copper dish with enough sauce to mop up with half a baguette. Vegetable sides are sourced from the market and change weekly.
For dessert the tarte au fromage blanc — a light, barely-sweet Burgundian cheesecake — is the one to order if it appears on the board. Pair the meal with a glass of Irancy, the small Yonne-valley red made from Pinot Noir that rarely travels far from the region and is criminally underrated.
Atmosphere & Practicalities
The dining room is small — perhaps ten tables — with stone walls, checked tablecloths and the background noise of a kitchen that takes its work seriously but not solemnly. Service is friendly and unstuffy; the patron will happily discuss the provenance of whatever is on the plate if you show genuine curiosity.
Lunch is the better-value option: a two-course weekday formule typically runs around €15–18 and includes a glass of local wine. Book ahead for weekend dinner as the room fills quickly with Parisians who have driven down for the weekend.
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