Mercado de Triana, Seville
Tucked inside a beautifully restored 19th-century iron-and-tile market hall on the west bank of the Guadalquivir, Mercado de Triana is where Seville's most spirited neighbourhood does its daily shopping. Beneath the stalls' cheerful ceramic signs, fishmongers fillet fresh anchovies, cheese vendors slice Manchego and bar counters overflow with cold fino sherry at 10am — and nobody bats an eye.
What to Buy and Eat
The market's ground floor is a riot of colour: pyramids of Piquillo peppers, ropes of dried garlic, olives marinated in a dozen different ways and the fat, bright-orange boquerones (anchovies) that Seville is mad about. Head to the inner bar stalls for a montadito — a small open sandwich — topped with jamón ibérico or salmorejo-soaked bread.
Stall 36, Bar Kiosco Las Flores, is a local institution for its cold-pressed orange juice and churros. The market also sells handmade ceramics, which make far more meaningful souvenirs than anything from a tourist shop on Calle Sierpes.
The Triana Neighbourhood Around It
Mercado de Triana sits at the foot of the Puente de Isabel II, and after shopping you can walk the riverfront Calle Betis for some of the best views back across the Guadalquivir to the Torre del Oro and Seville's skyline. The whole embankment turns into an open-air terrace on warm evenings.
Triana is the birthplace of Seville's flamenco tradition, and the surrounding streets — especially Calle Castilla — are dotted with small peñas (flamenco clubs) that host authentic, non-touristy performances on weekend nights.
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