Église et Couvent des Cordeliers & Ducal Tombs
A five-minute walk from the tourist crowds of Place Stanislas, the Franciscan church of the Cordeliers contains the Renaissance mausoleum of the Dukes of Lorraine — one of the most atmospheric and undervisited historic interiors in eastern France. The adjoining ducal palace houses the Musée Lorrain, a rich regional history collection that most visitors to Nancy never find.
The Ducal Mausoleum
The circular Chapel of the Dukes, attached to the Gothic nave, was built in the early 16th century and contains the marble recumbent effigies of René II, Duke of Lorraine, and his wife Philippa of Guelders — both carved with extraordinary delicacy. The chapel feels genuinely sacred and quiet even when the rest of the city is busy.
Philippe of Guelders later became a Poor Clare nun and her effigy, carved in limestone with eyes closed and hands folded, is considered one of the finest pieces of Renaissance sculpture in France. The contrast between the cold stone and the warm candlelight makes it deeply moving.
The Musée Lorrain Next Door
The Palais Ducal adjacent to the church houses the Musée Lorrain, which traces the history of the Duchy of Lorraine from medieval times through to the 18th century. Highlights include a room dedicated to Jacques Callot's engraved series 'The Miseries and Misfortunes of War' — small prints of devastating power made in 1633 — and a collection of Lorraine faïence ceramics in vivid yellows and blues.
The museum reopened after extensive renovation in recent years and is now one of the best-presented regional history museums in France. The building itself, with its Gothic arcade and octagonal corner turret, is worth the trip even before you step inside.
Getting There and Combining Visits
The church and museum complex sits on Grande Rue in the old town, the medieval spine of Nancy that predates Stanislas's baroque makeover by several centuries. Walking north along Grande Rue from the Musée Lorrain takes you past half-timbered houses and the old city gate, the Porte de la Craffe — a 14th-century twin-towered gate that is one of the few surviving pieces of medieval Nancy.
Combine the Cordeliers church, the Musée Lorrain and the Porte de la Craffe into a single two-hour loop through the old town — it is the best way to understand Nancy's layered history beyond the 18th-century showpiece.
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