Food & drink · Águilas

Restaurante El Paso — Caldero del Mar Menor

Águilas has no shortage of rice restaurants, but El Paso on the seafront Paseo de la Constitución has been perfecting its caldero — a deep, saffron-stained fisherman's rice cooked in a cast-iron cauldron — for decades. The broth alone, served as a first course with alioli and crusty bread, is reason enough to book a table.

Restaurante El Paso — Caldero del Mar Menor
Photo by Marcelo Verfe on Pexels

The dish itself

Caldero is the quintessential dish of the Murcia coast: short-grain rice absorbs a concentrated stock made from scorpionfish, ñoras (dried peppers) and garlic, then the whole fish is served alongside as a second course. At El Paso the rice arrives at the table still bubbling, with a socarrat crust at the bottom of the pan that regulars fight over.

The menu also features arroz meloso con bogavante (creamy lobster rice) for those who want to push the boat out, but the caldero at around €14–16 per person is the honest, local choice.

Restaurante El Paso — Caldero del Mar Menor
Photo by Zakhar Vozhdaienko

When and how to go

Lunch is the main event here, as it is at almost every serious rice restaurant in Spain — arrive between 2 pm and 2:30 pm for the best experience and book ahead on weekends between June and September when the terrace fills with Spanish families on holiday.

Ask for a table on the covered terrace facing the sea; the interior is pleasant but the view of the fishing boats bobbing in the harbour while you eat is part of the pleasure.

Restaurante El Paso — Caldero del Mar Menor
Photo by Khalil Sallem
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