Braai & Seswaa at Bull & Bush, Gaborone
You cannot leave Botswana without eating seswaa — the national dish of slow-pounded beef or goat, cooked for hours until it falls apart into a rich, stringy mass served with pap (maize porridge) or sorghum. Bull & Bush Pub and Steakhouse in Gaborone's Molapo Crossing area is the most beloved institution in the capital for experiencing both this dish and the country's legendary braai (barbecue) cul
What to Order
Seswaa is the centrepiece: bone-in beef or goat is simmered with salt and onion for three to four hours, then pounded in a wooden mortar until it shreds into a dense, intensely savoury pile. It arrives beside a mound of stiff pap or bogobe (sorghum porridge) and a relish of morogo — wild-harvested leafy greens cooked with tomato and onion. The combination is earthy, filling and deeply satisfying.
Bull & Bush is also famous for its enormous flame-grilled steaks — Botswana beef, raised on Kalahari grasses, is genuinely world-class and exported to the EU. The ribeyes and T-bones here are priced far below what equivalent quality would cost in Europe or North America, making this one of the great steak bargains on the continent.
The Bull & Bush Experience
The restaurant has been a Gaborone institution since the 1970s, with a sprawling outdoor terrace, thatched lapa (traditional shelter) seating and a pub interior plastered with rugby memorabilia and local history photos. It draws a cross-section of Gaborone life — politicians, expats, students and families celebrating birthdays all share the same long wooden tables.
Friday and Saturday evenings often feature live music and the outdoor braai pits are fired up for special events. Arrive before 7pm on weekends to secure a table without a reservation; the place fills completely by 8pm.
Other Local Food Stops
For a more casual street-food experience, head to the food stalls near the bus rank on Khama Crescent in the city centre, where vendors sell fat cakes (deep-fried dough, similar to vetkoek), boerewors rolls and roasted mealies (corn) from early morning.
Kalahari Brewing Company, also in Gaborone, produces craft beers including a honey ale made with local Kalahari honey — a good pairing with any braai spread and a growing point of pride for the local food scene.
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