Marché d'Arles — Boulevard des Lices
Every Saturday morning, the grand tree-lined Boulevard des Lices transforms into one of the largest and most atmospheric markets in all of Provence, stretching for nearly a kilometre with over 300 stalls. Lavender honey, tapenade, saucisson d'Arles, fleur de sel from the Camargue and bolts of Souleiado fabric compete for your attention — and your basket.
What to Buy and Where to Look
The food section near the Jardin d'Été end is where locals actually shop: look for the Camargue rice producers selling their nutty red and white varieties direct, and the olive-oil pressers from the Vallée des Baux who bring unlabelled bottles of cold-pressed gold. A wedge of Pécorino from the stall run by a Crau shepherd is worth every centime.
The textile and antique section toward the Porte de la Cavalerie draws collectors hunting for Provençal quilts (boutis), vintage santons figurines and brocante oddities — budget at least an hour if you have a weakness for beautiful junk.
Eating Your Way Through the Market
Several vendors sell socca (chickpea pancakes) and fougasse straight from portable ovens; grab both and perch on a bench beneath the plane trees for an impromptu breakfast. The charcuterie stalls slice saucisson d'Arles — a protected local salami with a delicate, garlicky flavour — to order.
Cap the morning at the terrace of the Grand Hôtel Nord-Pinus on Place du Forum, a ten-minute walk away, for a café crème and a review of your haul.
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