Chez Lulu – Socca & Pissaladière in the Old Town
Tucked into the pedestrian lanes of Vieil-Antibes, Chez Lulu is the kind of place that has no website, no reservation system and a handwritten menu that changes with the market — exactly the restaurant the Côte d'Azur does best. Come for pissaladière, the onion-anchovy tart that is Antibes' own answer to pizza, and the daily catch served simply with rouille.
What to Order
Start with pissaladière — the slow-cooked onion base should be almost jammy, topped with Niçoise olives and salt-packed anchovies on a thin, crisp pastry. Locals eat it standing at the counter with a glass of chilled Bellet rosé, and so should you.
The plat du jour almost always features something from the morning's market: maybe a daube of local beef with olives, or a fillet of rouget barbet (red mullet) with a saffron-scented broth. Portions are generous and prices are honest — rarely more than €18 for a main.
The Neighbourhood Around It
The lanes immediately around the restaurant — particularly Rue Thuret and Rue du Bas-Castelet — are the most atmospheric in the old town, with ochre and terracotta façades draped in bougainvillea and cats sleeping on every second windowsill.
After lunch, walk three minutes to the Commune Libre du Safranier, a tiny self-proclaimed 'independent commune' within Antibes that holds its own fête each August — a whimsical local tradition that perfectly captures the playful spirit of the town.
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