City

Spandau

Spandau
Photo by selcuk sarikoz on Pexels
Spandau
Photo by Gonzalo Facello on Pexels
Spandau
Photo by Paparazzi Ratzfatzzi on Pexels
Spandau
Photo by Anh Nguyen on Pexels
Spandau
Photo by Roman Biernacki on Pexels
Spandau
Photo by Jan Arve Pettersen on Pexels

Spandau has been a city longer than Berlin has. That fact sits quietly at the heart of the Juliusturm, a 13th-century tower that predates its famous neighbour by decades and still stands at the centre of the Citadel, surrounded by a moat and four Renaissance bastions. First documented in 1197 — forty years before Berlin-Cölln appears in any record — Spandau spent centuries as a distinct place with its own rhythms, its own church, its own prison.

That separateness never quite dissolved. The old town has Berlin's largest pedestrian zone, a Late Gothic house from the 15th century still standing on a quiet corner, and a church where the Protestant Reformation arrived in Brandenburg on a specific date: 1 November 1539.

💛 What travellers fall for

People who come back tend to time the Citadel for a Thursday evening, when it stays open until 8 pm and the crowds thin. The Kolk quarter, oldest part of the Altstadt, is worth walking slowly — the scale is different from central Berlin, lower and older-feeling. The Gotisches Haus on the main pedestrian street is easy to walk past without realising what it is.

Good to know
Take the U7 to Rathaus Spandau (western terminus, about 30 minutes from the centre) or the S3/S9 to Berlin-Spandau, which also handles long-distance trains. The Citadel closes Thursdays until 1 pm but stays open until 8 pm — the best day to visit. The town hall's 80-metre tower photographs well from the street; there's no reason to go inside.

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The story

How Spandau came to be

Slavic settlers were here in the 7th or 8th century, and the Hevelli tribe built a fortress on the confluence of the Havel and Spree. By 1232, Spandau had city rights — well before Berlin was anything more than a river crossing. The Citadel as it stands now was begun under Ascanian rule and completed between 1559 and 1594 under Joachim II of Brandenburg, to plans drawn by the Italian architect Francesco Chiaramella de Gandino. Its walls run to four metres thick.

The centuries brought Swedish troops in 1634, Napoleon's forces in 1806, and Prussian and Russian besiegers in 1813. In 1920, Spandau was absorbed into Greater Berlin. After 1945 it fell into the British sector, and the prison built here in 1876 became the detention site for Nazi war criminals — Rudolf Hess its final inmate until his death in 1987, after which the building was demolished and replaced with a shopping centre.

People & landmarks

Who and what shaped it

People who shaped it

Gottfried Kinkel
Poet and revolutionary imprisoned in Spandau town prison 1849; freed by Carl Schurz on 6 November 1850.
Erna Sack
Coloratura soprano (1898–1972), known as the 'German Nightingale'; born in Spandau.
Bela B.
Musician born 1962 in Spandau.

Landmark buildings

Spandau Citadel (Zitadelle Spandau)
Renaissance fortress completed 1559–1594 with 4-metre-thick walls; Juliusturm (13th-century tower, oldest building in Berlin) stands at its centre.
St. Nikolaikirche
Late Gothic hall church from 14th century where Elector Joachim II attended the first Lutheran service on 1 November 1539, marking the start of the Protestant Reformation in Brandenburg.
Gotisches Haus
15th-century Late Gothic building; Berlin's oldest town house with ribbed vaulted ceiling on ground floor; restored 1993.
Rathaus Spandau
Town hall completed 1913 with 80-metre tower.
Gatow Museum of Military History
Former Gatow airfield converted to museum in 1995; one-third of Allied Berlin Airlift flights landed here.
Practical

Plan your visit

On the map

When to go

Summers are warm and wet enough to make the Citadel's moat feel appropriately atmospheric; winters are cold and grey, with January averaging well below freezing and daylight running short. Spring and early autumn are the most comfortable seasons to walk the Altstadt at length.

Right now

19°C
Partly cloudy
Sat
25°
18°
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23°
12°
Mon
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18°
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Tue
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24°
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Weather data: Open-Meteo

Background & history adapted from Wikipedia (CC BY-SA) · specs from Wikidata (CC0) · weather from Open-Meteo · map data © OpenStreetMap contributors · photos from Wikimedia Commons / Unsplash with per-image credit. No third-party reviews or social posts reproduced.

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