Baphuon is a short walk north from the Bayan, along the large roads that connect the city of Angkor Thom. Small monkeys wander the roads and sit among the trees, comfortable with their human visitors. We reach the temple and I can see why it is called a mountain. It's no Everest, but even to get to the first level visitors will need to climb a decent number of stairs. Before doing so I decided to take a walk around the base of the temple to see how it looked from below. There are many smaller buildings surrounding the mountain, most of them consisting of only the doorframes and small segments of the walls. Piles of cut stone lay around the site, parts of the buildings that haven't been restored to their original locations. This tower was one of the most ruined of those discovered in the area, and restoration efforts made this place known as the "largest 3D jigsaw puzzle in the world." I felt a sense of loss that we will never again see it how it once was, but seeing the temple from below made me appreciate how much time and effort has gone into restoring this ancient building. You cannot climb the original steps to the temple. Instead there are wooden steps built on top of them. This helps to prevent any new damage to the original stone, and also ensures people wont get hurt walking on smooth, uneven stone that has been damaged by the rigours of time. Walking around this level almost felt like walking along parapets. Although not meant to be a defensive position, the stone frames could provide protection, and you can see out in every direction. The view I enjoyed most was the view of the path leading up to the temple. I imagined ancient worshippers walking in procession, ready to dedicate themselves to Shiva. Climbing up to the second floor I could see the base of the central structure. This once held a huge wooden tower, which has since rotted away. Only the stone door frames to access the central chamber remained. This would be the focal point of the temple, where many prayers will have been offered over the years. There are wooden steps up to the central chamber on the third floor, but these have been closed. Either the climb is too dangerous, or conservationists are worried about damage to the central tower. Whatever the reason, I wouldn't be getting a view from the top of the Mountain on this day. This is a pretty typical stop on any tour of Angkor Thom and, though you can't climb to the top anymore, is still worth it for the view.
Angkor Thom
The first thing you notice at Angkor Thom is the gate. A 23-metre sandstone tower rises from the causeway, and carved into each of its four faces is a giant, serene, half-smiling visage — the same face that will follow you through the entire city. Cross the moat, pass beneath it, and you are inside something that once held perhaps a hundred thousand people within walls three kilometres to a side.
Built around 1200 CE by King Jayavarman VII, Angkor Thom was the final and most ambitious capital of the Khmer empire. What remains today — temples, terraces, causeways, the great moat — occupies roughly 900 hectares and represents the concentrated ambition of one of history's most prolific royal builders.
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People who come back tend to skip the South Gate on return visits and enter instead through the East or North — fewer tuk-tuks, better light on the stone faces. They also linger on the inner wall of the Terrace of the Elephants rather than the outer face, where a second tier of carvings runs almost unseen at knee height.
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Book directly at the providerHow Angkor Thom came to be
The ground beneath Angkor Thom had already been royal territory for centuries before Jayavarman VII arrived. Phimeanakas, a Hindu temple with a golden tower, was raised here by Rajendravarman in the 10th century; the Baphuon, a 50-metre pyramid temple, followed under Udayadityavarman II in the 11th. These structures predate the city walls entirely and stand today as monuments to the dynasties Jayavarman inherited.
Jayavarman VII came to power in 1181 after the Cham people had sacked the previous capital. His response was to build on a scale the empire had never seen — Angkor Thom, with its moat, its five gated causeways, its Bayon at the centre, took shape around 1200. The last temple constructed within the walls, Mangalartha, was dedicated in 1295. By 1609, when the first Western visitor recorded his impressions, the city was already empty.
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The dry season, November through April, brings cooler mornings and manageable heat by mid-afternoon — the most comfortable window for walking the site. The wet season, May through October, turns the surrounding forest deep green and thins the crowds, but expect heavy afternoon downpours and high humidity.
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What travellers say about Angkor Thom
Wasn’t expecting to see much, but this temple was amazing the architecture and design is amazing. So many good spots to take pictures. Definitely would suggest coming here but be careful climbing up the stairs.
High above the ground, Baphuon Temple must had a lot of water features judging by the causeway and drainage systems. Maybe it is a sight to behold during the wet season. The temple is tall, equivalent of a ten floors building. Since we are not royals, we had to climb very steep stairs from the side to get to the top. It was a bit of exercise in 34C temperature wearing pants. Note the easier stairs for kings and queens are in ruins. From the top it's mostly jungles all around. The trees are really tall so views are limited. The top of the temple suffered terrible wear and tear from the elements. On the way down its steep stairs again.
I cannot find this temple until I ask a sweeper staff around. Apparently, it is sitting southwest (diagonally) of the Terrace of the Elephants, a bit hidden and is not truly visible from the road side. It's a large multi-tiered temple, with its scale and size comparable to Phnom Bakheng. I pass through a stone pathway where I see a pond on both sides, the one on my right side is filled with green moss. There are many stone ruins lying on the ground. Many of the walls have lost their shape too. A wooden staircase has been installed to let visitors climb up to the second and third tier of the temple. The original stone stairs are just too steep and narrow, too risky for safety. The last tier is closed for visitors. The structure looks fragile, walls and roofs are gone, leaving only the wooden door frame. The view at the top is serene and beautiful, making our effort on the staircase worthwhile. I recommend this temple should be in the 'to visit' list. Best arrival time here is morning between 07:00 and 08:00, before the sun is high and cruel.
5/5 The temple has multiple floors, and the staircase can be challenging. Walking up may be tough, but it's worth the visit. Each level features unique details, with covered walkways and steep heights from the ground. It takes time to explore, but it's definitely worth it. This is the third stop on the temple tour after the banyan temple.
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